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沒吃過云南火鍋別說你是火鍋愛好者
2020-01-11 18:09  www.co-realestate.com

  曾有美食家批判火锅,嫌它粗糙不讲究,各种荤菜素菜、鸡鸭牛羊肉,混杂下水内脏,不做区分一股脑儿地往锅里放,成了一锅大杂烩。

There has been a gourmet criticism of hot pot, it is rough not fastidious, all kinds of meat vegetables, chicken, duck, beef and mutton, mixed into the water viscera, do not make a brain to put into the pot, become a pot of hodgepodge.

  事实上,作为平民美食的代表,火锅无疑是当地风物最好的载体,缤纷的食材交织着当地的历史、习俗、风土、人情,各地美食之席上有这样一锅“大杂烩”,才显得足够丰富。若是要立一个人设,火锅一定是个活色生香又平易近人的好姑娘。

In fact, as the representative of civilian food, hot pot is undoubtedly the best carrier of local wind, the colorful ingredients are intertwined with the local history, customs, customs, customs, customs, customs, there is such a pot of \"hodgepodge\" on the banquet of local food, only to appear rich enough. If you want to set up a person, hot pot must be a lively fragrance and approachable good girl.

  与火热的川渝、潮汕火锅相比,云南的火锅似乎更像一道完整的汤菜。云南火锅的汤底,并不只是给食材增味的“容器”,从底料到配菜的搭配都自有一套逻辑,哪怕是嫌火锅“不讲究”的吃客,面对云南火锅独特的搭配恐怕都难以挑剔。

Compared with the hot Sichuan-Chongqing, Chaoshan hot pot, Yunnan hot pot seems more like a complete soup dish. The soup bottom of Yunnan hot pot, is not only to add flavor to the ingredients of the \"container \", from the bottom to the collocation of side dishes have a set of logic, even disrelish hot pot\" do not pay attention to \"customers, facing Yunnan hot pot unique collocation I am afraid is difficult to picky.

  云南分布着全中国数量最大、种类最多的野生菌资源。全世界的食用菌约2000种,而云南就分布了882种,占世界的%,中国的%。野生菌喜湿、喜热,不耐强光,地貌立体、季风交错吹过、晴雨交替频繁的云南全省都是野生菌生长的温房。

Yunnan is home to the largest and most abundant wild fungus resources in China. About 2,000 species of edible fungi are found in the world, while 882 species are found in Yunnan, accounting for% of the world and% in China. Wild bacteria like wet, hot, intolerant to strong light, three-dimensional geomorphology, monsoon interlaced blowing, frequent rain and rain in Yunnan Province are wild bacteria growth warm house.

  云南的野生菌美味而种类繁多,云南人自然爱得深沉,哪怕每年夏季都有几篇误食野生菌“见小人”的新闻,也挡不住云南人吃菌的热情。吃野生菌,最豪迈的吃法就是野生菌火锅了。

Yunnan's wild bacteria are delicious and varied, Yunnan people naturally love deep, even if every summer there are a few mis-eating wild bacteria \"see villain\" news, but also cannot stop the enthusiasm of Yunnan people to eat bacteria. Eating wild bacteria, the most heroic way to eat is wild fungus hot pot.

  在云南人的野生菌火锅里,一定不能出现香菇、蟹味菇、金针菇一类的人工菌,否则就太不“云南”了。明明有季节限定的“奢侈品”在前,谁的口腹又仅能被“大众款”所满足呢?

In Yunnan people's wild fungus hot pot, must not appear mushroom, crab flavor mushroom, Flammulina velutipes and other artificial bacteria, otherwise it is too \"Yunnan \". Whose mouth can only be satisfied with \"popular money\" when there are season-limited \"luxuries \"?

  所以一定要用最大的毅力,在炎热的夏天守在热腾腾的锅子前,先把鸡枞菌的菌伞一朵朵小心撕开,牛肝菌、青头菌、奶浆菌、黄丝菌等肉质偏脆的菌类切片或撕成小块,熬一锅浓稠飘着黄油的土鸡汤,再把食材一一下锅。

So be sure to use the utmost perseverance, in the hot summer in front of the hot pot, the first chicken fir fungus umbrella one by one carefully to tear open, liver fungus, green fungus, milk fungus, yellow fungus and other crisp meat fungus sliced or torn into small pieces, boil a pot of thick buttery chicken soup, and then the ingredients into a pot.

  若是有,一定还要配上新鲜的竹荪。新鲜的竹荪是清脆的,煮好后,满满地吸入菌香鸡汤的精髓,饱满又多汁。吃野生菌火锅时,先喝汤,再吃菌,最后涮煮蔬菜,各种鲜味在味蕾交织重叠,谁还会想着吃肉呢?

If so, be sure to have fresh bamboo shoots. Fresh bamboo shoots are crisp, cooked, full of inhaled fungus chicken soup essence, full and juicy. When eating wild fungus hot pot, first drink soup, then eat bacteria, finally shabu boiled vegetables, all kinds of fresh taste in the taste buds intertwined and overlapped, who will think of eating meat?

  若论及鲜,剑川的天麻火腿鸡火锅,也不遑多让。天麻本就是云贵特产的珍稀药材,《本草纲目》里曾记载,当时的人们,会采摘其根茎,晒干后或生食,或蒸来食用。天麻用来入菜时药味并不浓烈,反而会带有一点独特的药香。

In the case of fresh, Jianchuan's Gastrodia elata ham chicken hot pot, is no different. Tianma is the rare medicinal material of Yungui specialty,\" Compendium of Materia Medica \"once recorded that people at that time, will pick its rhizome, after drying or raw food, or steamed to eat. Gastrodia elata is not strong when used in vegetables, but with a unique flavor of medicine.

  天麻珍稀,火腿同样难得。云南往东有宣威,靠西有诺邓,都出产品质极优的火腿。知名云南美食博主汪曾祺先生就曾说过,宣威的火腿与金华火腿难分高下。从盐商历史到制作手艺,再到三年熟成的等待,都赋予云南火腿更纤细而丰富的风味。在大理白族自治州内,诺邓火腿所在的云龙县与剑川县相邻,因着相近的风土,即便是剑川本地的火腿,品质怕也不俗。

Gastrodia elata rare, ham is also rare. Yunnan to the east Xuanwei, by the west of the Nou Deng, are producing excellent quality ham. Mr. Wang Zengqi, a well-known Yunnan food blogger, once said that Xuanwei's ham and Jinhua ham are difficult to distinguish. From the history of salt merchants to the craft of making, to the three-year-old wait, all give Yunnan ham a more slender and rich flavor. In Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, the Yunlong County, where Nodeng ham is located, is adjacent to Jianchuan County, because of the similar customs, even the local ham in Jianchuan, the quality is not vulgar.

  天麻是美味的良药,而火腿和鸡都是吊汤提鲜的好手,有这两位在,就没有吊不好的高汤。剑川人将这三者融合在一起做一个锅底,让火腿和鸡的油香咸鲜彼此交融,再点缀上天麻清新的药香,那便既是药膳又是佳肴了。

Gastrodia elata is a delicious medicine, and ham and chicken are a good hand to lift fresh soup, with these two in, there is no hanging bad high soup. Jianchuan people will blend the three together to make a pot bottom, so that ham and chicken oil and salty fresh blend, and then dotted with the new medicinal fragrance, that is both medicine and food.

  菌菇、火腿固然让人满足,但对肉食主义者来说,内心可能还有些许遗憾。想吃肉,富源的酸汤猪脚火锅也是一个好选择。

Mushrooms and hams are satisfying, but there may be some regrets to the meat eaters. Want to eat meat, rich source of sour soup pig foot hot pot is also a good choice.

  在富源酸汤猪脚店的门口,经常能看见两大盆“白山”,乍一看还以为是酸笋,其实是切丝泡好的白莹莹酸萝卜。这酸汤猪脚火锅中的“酸”,就是取自富源酸菜。

At the door of Fuyuan sour soup pig's foot shop, can often see two big pots of \"white mountain \", at first glance still think is sour bamboo shoots, actually is cut silk bubble good white clear sour radish. The \"sour\" in this sour soup pig's foot hot pot is taken from the rich source pickle.

  富源的酸菜常以白萝卜和青菜为主料。富源人口中的青菜,其实在北方被归为了白菜的一种,但在云南,“青菜”和白菜可是截然不同的两种蔬菜,青菜通体碧绿,颜色偏深,吃起来定是带一丝苦味的。而这一丝涩味,恰是青菜做成酸菜后,与猪蹄搭配,提鲜解腻的不二法门。

Rich sauerkraut is often based on white radish and green vegetables. The green vegetables of the rich source population are actually classified as one kind of cabbage in the north, but in yunnan,\" green vegetables \"and cabbage are two very different kinds of vegetables, the whole body of green vegetables, the color is dark, it must have a bitter taste. And this astringent taste, is the green vegetables after making pickled vegetables, and pig's hoof with, the only way to solve the problem.

  除了酸菜,猪脚也有讲究。听家里的长辈说,酸汤猪脚火锅里的猪脚原先并不是“脆皮”的,做法要比现在简陋不少。如今要做一锅富源酸汤脆皮猪脚火锅,得先把猪脚过水后油炸一道,待猪皮被炸得金黄发脆,再迅速捞起、滤油,入冰水急冻。这样做出来的成品猪蹄,表皮干爽红韧,紧紧包裹着皮下透明油润的脂肪和莹白的瘦肉,透露出一种极紧致的质感。

Besides pickled vegetables, pig's feet are fastidious. Listen to the elders of the family said that sour soup pig foot hot pot in the pig foot was not \"crispy \", the practice is much more humble than now. Now to make a pot of rich sour soup crispy pig's foot hot pot, must first pig's foot after the water fried together, until the pig's skin is fried golden crisp, and then quickly picked up, oil filter, into the ice water frozen. This finished pig's hoof, the skin dry red tough, tightly wrapped in the skin transparent oil-moisturized fat and white lean meat, revealed a very tight texture.

  将脆弹的猪蹄肉切块,与酸菜、辣椒、蒜苗等一起炒成底料,有时还会加入煨软的红豆,最终才能做出一个像样的锅底,可这工序费的力气,都快赶上做一道家宴的主菜了。所以旧时的酸汤猪脚火锅,其实也不是寻常能吃的食物,唯有逢年过节时来上一锅,吃一回得回味一年。

Cut the crispy pig's hoof into a base with pickled vegetables, chili peppers and garlic sprouts, and sometimes add simmering red beans to make a decent pot bottom, but the effort of this process is about to catch up with the main course of making a family dinner. So the old sour soup pig foot hot pot, in fact, is not ordinary can eat food, only every New Year to a pot, eat a year aftertaste.

  也不仅是猪蹄,类似于丽江腊排骨火锅等以猪肉为主的火锅,都是以前每到年节,寒冬凛凛时才能吃上一口的隆重佳肴。

Not only is the pig's hoof, similar to Lijiang pork-based hot pot, such as pork-based hot pot, are before the New Year, winter awe-inspiring to eat a grand delicacy.

  事实上,在云南还以农耕为主的年代,猪肉远比牛羊金贵。因为云南山地多而土层薄,缺乏耕地,极为缺粮,在清朝前期时人均耕地面积及粮食还不到四川、两湖的一半。而比起食草的牛羊,猪的口粮与人的口粮种类上有很大的重合,会出现“与人争粮”的情况,同时又不能提供毛皮和干农活,因此在缺乏粮食的时代,猪在云南就是不折不扣的稀罕物了。而用猪肉、盐和香料精心制作的腊排骨,更是冬日的“恩物”。

In fact, in the age of mainly farming in Yunnan, pork is far more expensive than cattle and sheep. Because yunnan mountainous land is many but the soil layer is thin, lacks the cultivated land, extremely lacks the grain, in the early qing dynasty the per capita cultivated land area and the grain is still less than half of Sichuan, the two lakes. But compared with the herbivorous cattle and sheep, the pig's rations have a great overlap with the human type of rations, there will be a situation of \"competing grain \", but also cannot provide fur and farm work, so in the age of lack of food, pigs in Yunnan is a real rarity. And pork, salt and spices carefully made of pork ribs, is a winter \"grace.\"

  现在去丽江的朋友,时常能吃到这道纳西族特色的腊排骨火锅——说它是招待贵宾的菜肴,那是一点都没夸张的。腊排骨砍成大节整齐地码在铜锅上,红棕色的肉质发亮,咸香扑鼻。吃腊排骨急不得,得多煮会儿,随着炭火慢慢升温,越煮越入味,再配上一点新鲜的蔬菜,就能品尝到别具一格的咸鲜滋味了。

Now to Lijiang friends, often can eat this Naxi characteristics of the steak bone hotpot - said it is a VIP dishes, that is no exaggeration at all. Rattan ribs cut into large sections neatly coded on the copper pot, red-brown meat bright, salty fragrance. You can't eat pork ribs, so you have to cook more. As the charcoal heats up slowly, the more you cook, the more you taste, and with a little fresh vegetables, you can taste the unique salty freshness.

  说完云南火锅以猪肉为底料的难得,那就不得不提一下相对平易近人的牛羊了。说到牛羊,大多数人都会想到北方的草原荒滩,但其实在西南的山地间,也出产肉质很好的牛羊。

Finish Yunnan hot pot with pork as the base material rare, that has to mention the relatively approachable cattle and sheep. When it comes to cattle and sheep, most people will think of the prairie desert in the north, but in fact, in the southwest of the mountains, also produce good meat cattle and sheep.

  因为高原山地的垂直地貌,云南很多地方都有丰富的草甸,随着明末以来云南人口的增多,从山谷平坝向山坡移居的少数民族们带着牛羊上山放牧,并用美味的高山黄牛肉和高山黑山羊做出了特色的美食。

Because of the vertical landform of plateau mountains, there are abundant meadows in many parts of yunnan. As the population of yunnan has increased since the late ming dynasty, ethnic minorities who have emigrated from the valley flat dam to the hillside have taken cattle and sheep to the mountains to herd their pastures and made special food with delicious alpine cattle meat and alpine black goats.

  丽江的少数民族,无论纳西族还是彝族等都喜欢吃黑山羊,冬季下雨的时候围着温暖的炉子吃一顿黑山羊火锅,再来口酒,可以祛除入骨的湿寒。

Lijiang ethnic minorities, whether Naxi or Yi people like to eat black goats, winter rain around the warm stove to eat a black goat hot pot, and then a mouthful of wine, can remove the wet cold into the bone.

  丽江的黑山羊火锅和老北京的涮羊肉尤为不同,老北京的涮羊肉切得薄,汤底简单,就是白水,讲究食材易熟、七上八下的一个“涮”。而丽江的黑山羊火锅更像是“煮”。开吃前,半熟的山羊肉已经连皮带肉切成小片地放进汤里煮,汤底多用羊骨熬高汤,有的还会用鱼骨。山羊肉膻味很淡,肉质细嫩,在羊汤里吸足鲜味后,再夹起来放进辣椒蘸水里一裹,就可以大口大口地配着白饭下肚了。

Lijiang black goat hot pot and old beijing shabu mutton are particularly different, the old beijing shabu mutton cut thin, simple soup, is white water, pay attention to the ingredients are easy to ripe, a \"shabu \". And the black goat hotpot in Lijiang is more like \"boiled \". Before eating, the medium-cooked goat's meat has been cut into small pieces and put into the soup, the bottom of the soup with sheep bone to boil high soup, some will use fish bone. The goat's meat is very light and tender, after sucking enough flavor in the sheep's soup, then pick it up and put it in the pepper dip in the water, you can go big with the white rice belly.

  其实无论黑山羊火锅也好,腊排骨、酸汤猪脚火锅也好,对云南人来说,这些调味不重的火锅都得要搭配蘸水。蘸水一定不能是放香油和红油的“荤的”,也一定不能是放麻酱、沙茶酱这样黏糊糊的。

In fact, regardless of black goat hot pot, pork ribs, sour soup pig foot hot pot, for Yunnan people, these flavored hot pot must be with dipping water. The dipping water must not be the \"meaty\" of oil and red oil, nor must it be so sticky as hemp sauce and shacha sauce.

  正经的云南火锅蘸水,是用糊辣椒粉做的。把红色的干辣椒放在火上烤,烤到半糊的时候辣椒会被激出一股浓香,此时再把烤好的干辣椒捣成面儿,就做成了焦香四溢糊辣椒粉。放一点糊辣椒粉,放一点香菜、葱花、蒜泥之类的配料,最后再浇上一勺火锅里舀出来的“原汤”,这样的辣椒蘸水,才对味了。

Serious Yunnan hot pot dipping water, is made of pasted chili powder. Put the dried red pepper on the fire and roast until half-paste, the pepper will be stirred out of a strong flavor, and then the baked dried pepper into noodles, made into a fragrant hot pepper powder. Put some pasty chilli powder, put some ingredients such as coriander, scallions, garlic puree, and finally pour over a spoonful of the \"original soup\" scooped out in a hot pot, such a chili dip in water to taste right.

  当然,如果是吃重口味的火瓢牛肉火锅,用蘸水就是多此一举了。云贵高原上的高山黄牛肉有多好?风靡全国大江南北的潮汕牛肉火锅,不看汤底和蘸料,最注重的就是牛肉品质,而潮汕周边的牛肉供应不足,讲究的潮汕人们都要强调,牛肉锅的牛肉都是选用了云贵的黄牛肉。

Of course, if it is to eat a heavy-flavored ladle of beef hotpot, with a dip is more than that. How good is the high mountain yellow cattle meat on the Yungui plateau? Popular throughout the country in the north and south Chaoshan beef hotpot, do not look at the soup bottom and dipping, the most attention is beef quality, and Chaoshan around the shortage of beef supply, pay attention to Chaoshan people should emphasize that the beef pot is selected Yungui cattle meat.

  牛肉品质好,火瓢牛肉的味道自然也没得说。火瓢牛肉中的“火瓢”其实指的是火锅的器具,是一口带长手柄的铜锅。牛肉已被稍微炒制过,铜瓢底下点燃炭火,让牛肉再一次煨煮入味,煮好的肉片上还沾着一层薄薄的红油,视觉味觉双重刺激,吃起来极为下饭。

The quality of beef is good, and the taste of ladle beef is naturally unknown. The \"fire ladle\" in the fire ladle beef actually refers to the utensil of the hot pot, is a copper pot with a long handle. The beef has been slightly fried, under the copper ladle ignited charcoal fire, let the beef simmer again to cook to taste, the cooked meat is also stained with a thin layer of red oil, visual taste double stimulation, eat the next meal.

  若是非要一一列举云南的特色火锅,那实在还有很多,像是腾冲的土锅子、怒江的漆油鸡……它们都带着火锅“大杂烩”一样的特性,但在配方和制作上也独有自己的风味。

If you have to list the characteristics of the hot pot in Yunnan, there are many, such as Tengchong earth pot, Nujiang lacquer chicken. They all carry the same characteristics as hot pot \"hodgepodge,\" but they also have their own flavor in recipe and production.

  看不起火锅的美食家大抵是精致的,只是这种美食家的精致未必就比火锅的粗糙更让人快乐。每一个喜欢特色火锅的食客无非是早已在心中确信:吃饭既可以表现为一种粗俗的嗜好、松散的道德,也可以是兴致勃勃地享用生活所赐予的快乐。

The gourmets who look down on the hot pot are probably exquisite, but the delicacy of this kind of gourmet is not necessarily more enjoyable than the roughness of the hot pot. Every diner who likes a special hot pot is already convinced that eating can be either a vulgar hobby, a loose morality, or a joyous enjoyment of life.

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